5.（法国）伯尔鲁帝 Berluti
品牌名片
品类：鞋、皮具、成衣
标志风格：高贵、优雅
创始人：阿里桑罗德·伯尔鲁帝（Alessandro Berluti）
诞生地：法国
诞生时间：1895年
伯尔鲁帝在制鞋过程中沿袭了在足底弓部采用小块锤打而成的皮革这一传统，奠定了其高贵而艺术品的品牌形象。
品牌阅读
Since 1895， each generation of Berluti has cultivated exceptional knowhow in the mastery of last-****** and a deep understanding of footwear. The result has consistently been shoes of incomparable comfort and elegance.
Alessandro Berluti was born in Senigallia， a tiny Italian port town in Le Marche on the Adriatic coast， on October 20th， 1865. It was here that he began carving out his future as an apprentice， constructing carriages from wood， seats and reins in leather. Years of hard work laid solid foundation for Alessandro in shoe industry in the future： skilled wood carving to ensure the upmost accuracy of the last， due attention to the leather to ensure the quality of the shoe， and the necessity of perfection to please the client. In 1882， with a strong desire to explore the world， Young Alessandro began his two years of journey and adventure which eventually led him to Paris， the city of light and joie de vivre.
A hard-working perfectionist， Alessandro rapidly found work with orders from a number of fellow-countrymen and experienced shoemakers with their own establishments.
Everywhere between the Opéra and the Tuileries the newly established grand hotels of Paris welcomed an international clientele in search of novelty and Parisian elegance. And here Alessandro set up his own boot****** workshop to craft shoes for these wealthy men who were not only connoisseurs but also extremely exacting clients.
During the search for a poetic aesthetic， Alessandro was fine-tuning his own style， and in 1895 he created an extraordinary lace-up shoe for men， in an unusual design using a single piece of leather with no visible stitching， smooth and supple as a leather glove.
By 1922，Torello plunged himself enthusiastically into the bootmakers craft that his father had taught him to love. His approach was very advanced from the start： he thought in terms of volume while others were still thinking simply in sizes. He was particularly focused on the beauty of the finished shoe.
Echoing the Art Deco style of the period， he preferred ****** and clean lines， introducing the “lace-panel Oxfords”and comfortable “Sans Gêne” elasticated boots. In 1928， to satisfy the flood of orders and receive his clients in comfort and style， Torello bought the lease of a shop at 9 rue du Mont Thabor. From there his fame spread， to such a point that wealthy international clients from the nearby grand hotels had their names put down on his waiting list for the privilege of wearing shoes made by Berluti.
With typical visionary enthusiasm and audacity， Talbinio ( the son of Torello) introduced ready-to-wear de luxe shoes in 1959， a selection of entirely hand-made models in the great boot****** tradition， but immediately available. This idea， at the dawn of a new era， opened the door to a very specific and younger clientele.
For the boutique， he designed a modern functional decor， where new customers could mingle with established clients to discover both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure shoes. Even fervent advocates of bespoke footwear， such as Edie Constantine， Truffaut， Godard， or Chabrol found immediate satisfaction in the new ready-to-wear models offered at rue Marbeuf. Cultivated， charming and attractive， by introducing remarkable changes， Talbinio had written， with grace and some success， a new page in the history of the House. Subsequently， Talbinio was joined by his young cousin Olga， who injected yet another burst of creative energy into the family business.
During 70s， Olga brought a touch of spice to luxury， perfecting Berlutis Venezia leather and introducing a hand-finished patina in a palette of exclusive shades. The Houses very individual shoes and the soul Olga discovered for them made the magic that to this day remains the romantic signature of Berluti.
Perfected during the 1980s， the famous Berluti patinas revolutionized the world of male footwear by introducing colour at a time when the majority of mens shoes were either black or brown.
upmost [‘pmst] adj. 最高的；最重要的
audacity [：dsti] n. 大胆
made-to-measure [‘meidtme] adj. 定做；特制
自1895年起，伯尔鲁帝家族每一代都不断钻研鞋楦制作的工艺，提高对鞋履工艺的理解，最终成就了无可比拟的优雅舒适的鞋履。
1865年10月20日，Alessandro Berluti出生于意大利Adriatic海岸旁的小村庄Sinegallia。青年时期的Alessandro潜心研习木刻工艺，用木头制造马车，皮革制座椅和缰绳。多年的勤奋工作为Alessandro日后投身制鞋业奠下坚实的基础，丰富木刻技艺令他精确掌控制鞋工艺中每个细节，而对皮革的严苛挑选亦确保所制鞋履的质量，为每位顾客带来极致完美的体验。1882年，年轻的Alessandro带着探索世界的强烈渴望，开始了历时两年的游历与冒险，最终，他抵达了充满阳光与欢乐的大都会巴黎。
Alessandro是一名勤奋的完美主义者，很快，他从自己的同乡们和已颇有建树的制鞋工匠们那里得到了许多订单。
在巴黎歌剧院和杜乐丽花园之间的区域不断兴建起奢华的酒店，聚集了大批来自世界各地的宾客们，他们兴致勃勃地在这座时尚之都寻找巴黎式的优雅与时髦。Alessandro在这个充满生机的区域建立了自己的工作坊，为这些富有的顾客设计鞋履，他们不仅深谙时尚之道而且也是最挑剔的客人。
在对诗意美学的追寻过程中，Alessandro逐渐定位了自己的风格。1895年，他史无前例地推出一双绑带男式皮鞋，显示出不同寻常的设计才华。这双皮鞋采用一整张皮切割制作而成，通身看不到明显的缝线，宛如皮手套一样光滑柔软，赋予双足前所未有的舒适感。这双奠定了伯尔鲁帝品牌风格的绑带男式皮鞋堪称一个传奇，在往后的岁月中亦渐渐成为人们口中传颂的神话。
到1922年，在父亲的影响下，Torello充满地热情地投入到制鞋工艺中。他的追求在当时已十分超前：当其他的鞋匠还在简单地考虑尺码时，Torello则在思考如何设计并表现鞋子的轮廓（体量），他尤其注意完成品美的展示。Torello特别钟爱简单清晰的线条，他推出了“绑带牛津鞋”（lace-panel Oxfords）和具有弹性的Sans Gene便鞋，呼应着当时风行的装饰艺术风格（Art Deco）。与此同时，Berluti的生意蒸蒸日上，顾客与订单不断增多。1928年，Torello买下了Mont Thabor街9号的店铺开设精品店。他个人亦盛名远播，以至于那些下榻于附近奢华酒店的豪客们慕名而来，想定制一双Berluti皮鞋，也不得不先将名字列入预约单上排队等候。
1959年，充满热情与勇气的Talbinio（Torello的儿子）富于远见地推出奢华成衣鞋履系列：完全采用传统精湛手工艺制作，顾客去店内即可购买，无需等待。这个系列立刻在年轻顾客群体中大受欢迎。
Talbinio设计的精品店十分摩登且具有功能性，新老顾客在这里自在交谈，分享他们对成衣鞋履和定制鞋履的经验。甚至那些像Edie Constantine、Truffaut、Godard、Chabrol这样热衷于定制鞋履的老顾客，在Marbeuf街的Berluti店里试穿新推出的成衣鞋履时也感到很满意。风度翩翩、知识渊博的Talbinio成功地在Berluti品牌历史上书写了优雅的新篇章，为这个高级鞋履品牌带来革命性的发展。很快，Tolbinio的堂妹Olga也加入了家族生意，为Berluti注入全新的活力与创意。
20世纪70年代，Olga在Berluti经典的奢华风格中融入几分趣味，使其专有的Venezia皮革更加完美，通过手工Patina技术赋予皮革独一无二的明暗色调。Olga从Berluti那些深具风格的鞋履设计中提炼出灵魂之光，使之在今天仍焕发出魔力光彩，继续谱写着Berluti那充满浪漫风格的经典篇章。
经过持续的探索，伯尔鲁帝的patina工艺在80年代臻于完美，不同色彩的皮鞋，革命性地颠覆了男鞋世界。而当时，大部分男鞋都是黑色或棕色的。
