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第48章 皮具(1)

1.(意大利)菲拉格慕 Salvatore Ferragamo

品牌名片

品类:鞋子、饰品、香水

标志风格:华贵典雅、实用性和款式并重

创始人:萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)

诞生地:意大利

诞生时间:1911年

菲拉格慕是意大利的女鞋王国,因为异常关注质量和细节,有“明星御用皮鞋匠”的称号。产品包括皮鞋、皮革制品、配件、服装和香氛。

品牌阅读

Salvatore Ferragamo is one of the most prominent shoe****** families in Italia. Salvatore Ferragamo dedicated his life to the search for a secret: the shoe that fits well. When he began studying human anatomy in the United States, he found his first clue to the problem in the distribution of the bodys weight over the joints of the foot. He wrote“I discovered that the weight of our bodies, when we are standing erect, drops straight down on the arch of the foot. I constructed my revolutionary lasts, which support the arch, make the foot act like an inverted pendulum”.

Salvatore ferragamo was born in Italia in 1898. When he was 13 years old, he set a shop in Bonito and made the first pair of tailored womens shoes.

In 1923, Salvatore Ferragamo opened up the Hollywood Boot Shop in Las Palmas, Hollywood, which became a place the movie actresses always came to.

During the war, Salvatore Ferragamo experimented with humble materials such as raffia and cork to create the cork wedge.

In 1947, Salvatore Ferragamo won the “Neiman Marcus Award”, fashions Oscar equivalent, with the “Invisible sandal”.

In 1948, the first Ferragamo store in New York opened on Park Avenue (now on Fifth Avenue).

The Company created a velvet ankle boot for the actress Brigitte Bardot in 1966.

The Ferragamo store in the Mandarin Hotel, Hong Kong, marked the start of expansion into the Far East in 1989.

In 1994, Ferragamo opened its first shop in Shanghai, marking the start of expansion into the Peoples Republic of China.

In 2001, Ferragamo Parfums was established.

Salvatore Ferragamo is now in its third generation. Shoes remain Ferragamos core business and the creative engine of its entire production. High quality is ensured by the attention given to model construction and the strong manual component that characterizes the production.

The Golden Rules for Shoe Care

1. A new pair of shoes should never be worn for many consecutive hours. Once your feet are completely accustomed to the shoes, you can begin to wear them all day.

2. Never wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. Let them rest for at least a day before wearing them again.

3. Always use a shoehorn when putting on your shoes.

4. Before removing a lace-up shoe, loosen the laces completely so the shoe slips off more easily.

5. Once shoes are taken off, insert the made-to-measure shoetrees.

6. Shoetrees should also be used when shoes are wet from rain or snow: left to dry for an entire day.

7. Each time you wear a pair of shoes they should be cleaned and polished.

8. When you dont wear your shoes, wax and put them in a drawstring, and keep down in a box.

prominent [‘prminnt] adj. 杰出的;卓越的

lace-up [‘leisp] adj. 系带的

菲拉格慕是意大利最显赫的制鞋家族之一。萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕先生致力于研究发现让鞋子穿着更为舒适的秘密。当他在美国学习人体工程学的时候,他有了最初的发现,那就是:鞋子是否合脚的关键是在于人体重量的分布。他在自传中写道:“当人站立时,重量落在延伸下来到足弓部分的直线上。由此我设计出一种能够支撑足弓的新型鞋,让脚像倒挂的钟摆。”

萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕于1898年出生于意大利。当他13岁时,在Bonito开设店铺,并制作出第一双量身定做的女式皮鞋。

1923年,萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕在好莱坞Las Palmas大道开办好莱坞鞋店(Hollywood Boot Shop),成为电影女明星经常光顾的地方。

在战争期间,菲拉格慕用拉菲亚树叶纤维和软木等简陋材质演绎其创意。

1947年,“隐形”凉鞋为菲拉格慕赢得了“Neiman Marcus”奖——时尚界的奥斯卡奖。

1948年,纽约的首家菲拉格慕专卖店在林荫大道(现第五大道)开业。

1966年,菲拉格慕为女明星碧姬·巴铎(Brigitte Bardot)设计了一双天鹅绒及踝短靴。

1989年,菲拉格慕专卖店入驻香港文华酒店(Mandarin Hotel),标志着菲拉格慕向东方拓展的开端。

菲拉格慕上海美美百货(Shanghai Maison Mode)店开业于1994年,标志着中国业务的起步。

2001年,菲拉格慕旗下的香水公司成立。

如今,萨尔瓦托勒·菲拉格慕公司现已步入第三代。鞋业仍旧是菲拉格慕公司的核心业务及整套产品的创新引擎。菲拉格慕在产品制造过程中,高度重视鞋款模型结构和牢固的手工制作等重要环节,这是其产品卓越品质的保证。

皮鞋保养黄金法则

1.请勿连续数小时穿着一双新鞋。一旦您的双脚完全适应了新鞋,您便可以开始长时间穿着。

2.请勿连续两天穿同一双鞋。再次穿之前至少让鞋休息一天。

3.穿鞋时请务必使用鞋拔。

4.脱下系带鞋之前,请将鞋带完全解开,这样可以更加轻松地将鞋脱下。

5.一旦将鞋脱下,请放入量脚定制的鞋楦。

6.鞋履在雨雪天气中潮湿后也请使用鞋楦,并晾干一整天。

7.即使鞋履看上去仍很光亮,每次穿着时也请擦拭并上光。

8.如果一段时间不穿鞋品,请涂上一薄层鞋油,放入随鞋屡赠送的布袋,并将其鞋底朝下放入盒中。

2.(法国)兰姿 Lancel

品牌名片

品类:包具、配饰

标志风格:经典、贵族化

创始人:安吉拉·兰姿(Angele Lancel)

诞生地:法国

诞生时间:1876年

兰姿是有着百年历史的法国箱包品牌,以贵族化的理念,为身份不凡者创造商品,以蟒纹,鸵鸟,鳄鱼等纹样为主。

品牌阅读

It was a woman who founded the Maison Lancel in 1876. Her name was Angele, and she had brains, vision and daring. She opened a shop near the brand new Opéra Garnier in the liveliest quarter of Paris. She sold articles for smokers, then, very soon, decided to turn her attention to ornaments and accessories for ladies. Lifestyles and fashion were changing.

The Maisons activity was turned towards ladies accessories and decorative objects. The very first handbag was created and replaced the classic purse. Lancels creativity was at its height in the Roaring Twenties when the windows of its increasingly numerous stores (from 10 in 1900 to 17 in 1917) became showcases for decorative tableware, then clocks, jeweler, phonographs, cameras and later luggage as befitted this era of ocean-going liners and long-distance travel.

It was in 1927 that Lancel created its legendary bucket bag. It was rightfully rebaptised Premier Flirt in 2006. In 1929, the Maison Lancel moved into four floors on Place de lOpéra, the building which remains the brands flagship to this day. Taking over Lancel from his mother, Albert permanently transformed the family business into a prosperous purveyor of luxury leather goods. Among his talents was the will to nurture Lancels fundamental values: daring, imagination, innovation... The period between the two World Wars was marked by intensive creativity for Lancel. The brand moved ahead of its clients expectations, whose thirst for modernity was quenched by new patents: the “automatic lighter”, “the Lancel Aviona Trunk”, but also the “Umbrella Bag” were innovative creations of the time.

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